The trip to Ladakh was a lot of firsts for me, including the first time I didn’t feel so bad about a vacation ending. To be honest, I spent most nights twisting and tossing in my bed sunk under three blankets wishing I was at a place that didn’t threaten to suffocate or freeze me.

The other reason was I had plans to fly into a happy place in my memory lane full of nostalgia and amazing food. I was to fly to Kolkata to see my brother who works there and also see the glory of Durga Puja in all its glory after so many years. It would be childhood all over again, without adult supervision this time.

I have no count of all the things I ate in those 2.5 days I was there. But my love for Bengali food is no secret and I want to write a tribute to how much the place makes me feel at home and makes me feel so warm. It was exactly what I needed after the Ladakh trip.

Here are a few things one must try if you ever visit Kolkata, even if it is for just a day.

The matka chai at every nook and corner.

The chai at Kolkata has a taste that’s neither too sweet nor too strong. Rarely have I come across people adding any condiments to the tea here, but the tea by itself has so much flavor packed in it. Of course, I cannot vouch for every roadside tea stall, but use your good judgement and look for freshly made hot tea in a traditional kettle, with lots of customers having “cha” in the Kolkata style earthen cups and say out loud, “Dada, ekta chai!”

I had at least 20 cups of chai in those two days easily, every time I spotted a good-looking tea shop. If you live in Chennai, you know it’s better to have coffee outside than tea. And if you are a tea person, you better make the most of this chance, while you are walking the streets of Kolkata.

The Sondesh that makes my heart sing

Now, I’m not a sweet person. Literally and figuratively. I do not understand the craving people have for sweets. For me, it is always something I can avoid to make space for that extra serving of biriyani. But even someone like me cannot resist the sweet temptation of the shops in Kolkata. You see rows and rows of colorful, sugary goodness and somehow you want to pop them in your mouth and never stop until you feel giddy and your stomach hurts. The key is to try one sweet at a time and try them at different shops each. There is one sweet shop every 100 m anyways. Be sure to try every different kind of Sondesh out there and when you get bored, have a roshogolla and have a Sondesh again. Repeat till you leave Kolkata.

The flaming hot Ghugni

I grew up with this Ghugni under the Belgharia flyover, where there was an old man selling the most delicious plate of Ghugni. Call it nostalgia, call it comfort, I dream of this piping hot plate of Ghugni and the way it makes me feel. This old man always asks you if you want it spicy or sour, he would ask “Tok ki jhaal?” And customize it for you accordingly. It is a mystery to me that this simple plate of yellow peas cooked with masalas and green chilies is something I so strongly crave for. And I tried Ghugni at different places over the years, but none of them came close to the old man under the bridge and his plate of Ghugni. 🙂

The Kolkata Biriyani with the trademark potato

I may look like the potato here, but I’m in fact referring to the potato in my plate. My love for biriyani comes only second to my love for my dog and my family. Over the years, I’ve relentlessly pursued different types of biriyani from different kitchens and cuisines. Kolkata Biriyani has its own unique place in my heart though I know that it is something I can only eat only in a while. It’s aromatic flavors and the strong scent of spices is something you must indulge in once in a while. The fried potatoes are a mandatory accompaniment bringing a whole new layer of texture to the Kolkata Biriyani. I ate my quota of mutton biriyani in a crowded roadside stall during the mad rush of puja, after having declared I cannot move another inch if I do not fill my belly with Biriyani at this very instant. It was average, to say the least. But I’m not here to review that food stall. I’m here to share some absolutely stunning Bengali dishes one must try.

I had this chicken biryani at the airport while I was leaving and this was so much better. If you are in Kolkata, Google the best biriyani joints, ask a local, do what you must, but do try the biriyani.

Phuchka – The best version of panipuri in the country

It’s safe to say that I’ve tried eating panipuri wherever I’ve gone in India, and that includes states like U.P., Delhi and M.P. typically known for its street food. But there is no match to the phuchka you get in Kolkata. It’s tangy, it’s spicy and it’s everything you dreamt of, all inside that Puri in your mouth. It’s also the only place the vendor will give you one to taste and ask you if the masala is ok and if you want anything changed. If had to say this NRI style, ” I had my heart’s content of these magical flour balls filled with potatoes and chickpeas dipped in the most flavourful mix of tamarind sauce. “

Bhoger khichuri and Labra

What is the point of visiting Kolkata during Durga Puja if you do not get to have Durga maa’s bhog khichdi and the mixed veg tarkari. I woke up right at noon on Navami and went down to the nearest pandal I found to get my share of this delicious goodness. Though it was a little sweet for my preference, who am I to say no to Dugga Maa’s preference of her favourite food. I requested the organizers to give me a tiny sample of the khichuri, labra and payesh, so that I do not waste it. They were shocked at this request but entertained me nevertheless, despite me being the strange girl who showed in night pants and asked them for a taste of khichuri.

Khasta kachori and aaloo sabji

I discovered this one only this time. I was staying at New Alipore at my brother’s place and I explored the place in and out for everything I could possibly eat. Gupta brothers was the best Discovery of all. I liked everything I had here including all the sweets and the dhokla. But the best was their breakfast kachori and sabji which was the best breakfast I’ve had quite in some time. The Jalebis were just because I could not resist those hot glorious things.

Another noteworthy mention is an interesting place my brother forced me to go to, a fusion place called “Bohemian” with great food and crazy cocktails. You will find names like the Kolkata Biriyani, the Sunderbans sunset, nolen gurer drink at the menu and yes, you must try it. I tried the biriyani cocktail and it was so sweet that I couldn’t finish it, but I just could “not try” it. Everything we ate here was good, especially the mutton chops with the meat falling off the bones. The baked cheese and crab meat appetizer were interesting, but I stuck to Bengali food.

Kolkata has always been about its people as much as it has been about food. Going to Kolkata is about walking down the memory lane and meeting neighbors who were almost family, and spending time in the colourful corners we grew up in. Even in these two days, I was overloaded with fish and love on my plate. 🙂

This post was just a glimpse of what Kolkata can offer for someone visiting for just two days. There are so many things I’ve missed out here from the Bengali cuisine that is so close to my heart. I wish I could wax poetic about all of them, but today’s not that day.

Happy Navratri everyone!